DINING OUT

Author(s): Mitchell Zuckoff, Globe Staff Date: November 11, 1990 Page: 10 Section: WEST WEEKLY

Sure, the state's economy is doing an impression of a migratory bird (goin' south). And, yes, even the optimists are arguing over whether we're heading into a recession or we're already in it.

But those aren't good reasons to stop enjoying a meal out now and again. In fact, some restaurateurs I know would argue that, as during the Great Depression, now is the perfect time for a bit of culinary escapism. Perhaps something along the line of "forget your troubles, c'mon get hungry."

That said, this week's review -- and others in the future -- will focus on a simple restaurant where you can do that, without spending much money.

There are pizza places in every city and town covered by West Weekly, and the Framingham Yellow Pages alone lists more than 40.

But few, if any, can match Franca's.

Friends and colleagues had told us about this place, but we figured it would be more of the same: doughy, chewy crusts, a basic sauce, and ho-hum cheese and toppings.

Our skepticism faded as quickly as our pizza arrived.

We ordered a large sausage and garlic at a very reasonable $9.60. It was a treat -- thin crispy crust, lots of cheese, zesty sauce, thick slices of Italian sausage and just enough garlic to keep the werewolves at bay. Among the other toppings are meatball, pepperoni, salami, mushroom, peppers, onions, ricotta, anchovie, bacon, eggplant, black olives, spinach and broccoli. For single-item pizzas, a small is $5.75 and a large is $8.85.

Franca's also offers several specials. First, there's a pizza with everything ($8.75 and $12.35). Then they get creative. How about a pizza with chicken and roasted peppers, or ham and pineapple (both $7.50 and $9.95)?

Maybe next time.

Having enjoyed our pizza, we came back to check the subs, just to make sure this was no one-trick pony.

I ordered the Italian ($3.65) and my wife had the Italian sausage ($3.80). Both arrived in hearty portions and were just as good as we hoped they'd be.

Among the other subs on the menu are meatless, meatball, eggplant, veal cutlet, chicken cutlet with or without parmigiana, tuna, steak and cheese, roast beef and chicken salad, with prices ranging from $3.25 to $4.75.

Franca's menu also includes a variety of hamburgers and club sandwiches, including a cheeseburger club, ham and cheese, turkey breast and boneless chicken, all for $4.25.

For more substantial meals, there are several dinner selections, including sirloin tips with steak fries ($8.50), lasagna with or without meatballs ($6.65 or $7.65), and toasted ravioli with or without meatballs (same prices).

Among the $7.50 dinner specials are shrimp scampi with spaghetti, barbecue boneless chicken, broccoli and ziti, chicken and broccoli with spaghetti, and chicken scampi with spaghetti.

Pasta also is served with a choice of meatballs, sausage, eggplant parmigiana, chicken parmigiana, veal cutlet parmigiana, or chicken or sausage cacciatore, with prices from $6.35 to $8.75. Then there are several fried seafood dishes, including clams, scallops and haddock, for $6.95 to $7.95.

Franca's also offers a variety of side orders and appetizers, salads and desserts.

As the prices indicate, this is not a fancy restaurant. It's just a clean pizza place with orange booths and painted scenes from Italy on the walls.

But if you're looking to get out with the family or a friend, and you're hungry for pizza or a sub at a fair price, Franca's is the right choice.

Boston.com and The Boston Globe images are property and copyright of The Boston Globe.